Highlights from a week of learning, island-hopping, and a little midnight improvisation.
Crewman’s log
This thing is bigger than our house.
Marina Baotić · First night aboard
First night aboard Seaside Dreams. Joep’s safety briefing is done, I’ve settled into the forward port cabin, and I’m on the bow in the cool evening breeze, wondering how I’m going to sail something this big.
“This craft is bigger than the first floor of our house. This is insane!”
Crewman’s log
So far, so good.
Marina Baotić → Stonca Bay, Vis
My favorite fifteen minutes: everyone downstairs eating lunch, me at the helm. Autopilot off, trimming the sails and feeling the boat respond in about 17 knots of wind.
At Vis, I swam two heavy stern lines ashore and tied us to a ring and a boulder. This enormous boat was relying on my knots overnight. So far, so good. Then came a dinghy ride into town, beef cheeks for dinner, and singing drifting across the harbor.
September 13 · Finding the feel of the boat.
Crewman’s log
Definitely not Jordan Lake.
Vis → Komiža
Twin-propeller maneuvering practice, more swims with shore lines, then pizza, beers, and a bakery stop in Komiža with Ley.
Tomorrow’s departure: 3 a.m., for a ten-hour passage. First we’d have to untie ourselves from the rocks in darkness. Definitely not Jordan Lake. This was shaping up to be a scene from Mission Impossible.
Sailor’s log · ASA 101 passed
Mission Impossible, Croatian edition.
Komiža → Korčula
At 3 a.m., Dale and I took the dinghy, flashlights, and VHF to free our shore lines. With waves breaking on the rocks, we lifted the motor and pulled ourselves along the lines. Dale steadied the dinghy while I climbed out to untie each knot. The crew hauled us back, and we got underway.
Then a cushion blew overboard. Gusts near 20 knots, boat doing ten, pitch darkness—and Joep’s €500 cushion disappearing behind us. Dale steered, I spotted with a flashlight, and Joep guided us through taking the sails down. We lost sight of it.
Almost ready to give up, Dale said, “The hard part is over. Let’s continue to search.” We found it. Joep took the helm, held us in position with the engines, and we recovered it from the port stern platform. Our first crew-overboard procedure, before formal training and before sunrise.
Ten hours of sailing brought us to Korčula. Mooring felt like parking a house; Joep handled the hard parts. I’d passed ASA 101. Dinner, the old city, souvenirs for my family—and the thought: why don’t we just live on a boat?
See Joep’s departure planThe plan behind our 3 a.m. departure.
Sailor’s log · ASA 103 passed
Halfway there.
Korčula → Palmižana · Water taxi to Hvar
ASA 103 passed—halfway through my four certifications. We practiced Mediterranean mooring, arrived at Palmižana in the evening, and took a water taxi to Hvar for dinner.
Another day sailing, another step forward. This is what I really want to do.
Captain’s log · ASA 104 passed
Lonely Paradise. A rain-washed boat.
Palmižana → Uvala Šešula, Šolta
ASA 104 passed. Time to call this “Captain’s log.” For crew-overboard practice, we made a “man” from a fender and rope and named him Bob. Bob gave us plenty of recovery practice.
We spent the night in sheltered Šešula Bay, rafted with other boats, and ate at Lonely Paradise, a little restaurant reached by boat. A wild rainstorm interrupted dinner. As far as I could tell, all it did to us was wash the boat.
Captain’s log · ASA 114 passed
Back at the dock. Changed by the sea.
Šolta → Marina Baotić, Trogir
Back at Marina Baotić with 150 nautical miles officially logged and ASA 114 completing the set: 101, 103, 104, and 114. A week ago, I could barely believe I’d be sailing this boat.
The 3 a.m. adventure will stay with me. So will this crew. Dale reminded me to embrace the opportunity I’ve been given: spend time with family, sail more, and see what comes next.
The people who made the week. Aboard Seaside Dreams, September 13.
A good crew. A great instructor.
More than four certifications.
Dale and Sandra came from Banff, Canada. Ley, like me, was traveling solo; he came from South Carolina. Our skipper and instructor, Joep, came from the Netherlands.
Joep was nearly half my age, but he had a remarkable ability to read people and know how far to push them. He made the theory understandable, backed it up with real-world stories, and gave us time to practice.